Sunday, July 28, 2019

Die schönsten Kinderklassiker (Various)


Die schönsten Kinderklassiker is a collection of five stories, which (I presume) are classic tales for German children.  The first two (Der Struwwelpeter and Max und Moritz) are various tales to inspire obedience through terror (act right or you'll get your thumbs cut off and/or be milled into flour); the other three are lower-key and tales of little people who do different things.

I enjoyed the first two stories the most, as their methods were amusing (I especially enjoyed the story of the rabbit who steals the hunter's eyeglasses and rifle as he sleeps, then chases him through the town shooting at him).  I certainly didn't understand everything, but I got the gist.  Reading old German, probably altered to fit into a rhyme, isn't great for those learning.  But it was entertaining.

Rating: B

Saturday, July 27, 2019

Neu Schwanstein Castle


In Southern Bavaria, nestled in the foot of the Alps near the Austrian border, lies Neu Schwanstein Castle.  One of "Screwy Louie's" creations, it was built in the late nineteenth century based on the romantic visions of old.  Unfinished at the time of Ludwig's death, it has become a major tourist attraction, one of the most recognized castles in the world, and the inspiration for Walt Disney's Cinderella castle.  We stopped there on our way home from Garmisch.

There are three things to see in the area:
- Neu Schwanstein
- Hohenschwangau, a yellow castle Ludwig grew up in (you can look up at Neu Schwanstein from it)
- the Marienbrücke, a nice bridge with amazing views

You can see all in a day, but proper planning is required.  If you can, tour Hohenschwangau first (the tour takes an hour, I think), then Neu Schwanstein (a shorter tour, as only a few rooms were finished inside the castle), then hike up to the Marienbrücke (an additional 20-minute walk, with a fantastic view of Hohenschwangau along the way). 

Neu Schwanstein tour tickets are sold by time slot.  Ten years ago, you could walk up to the counter and get tickets for a tour within the hour; now, it's so crowded that you might not be able to see the castle until 6 hours later (that was our experience, this time around).  Without tickets, you can still get inside the main courtyard.

Hiking up to Neu Schwanstein take about 30 minutes and is all uphill.  Be prepared!











I enjoyed the views and the hike, but I must say I was disappointed in two things:
1) The sheer number of tourists (yes, I know I was one of them).  Over-tourism in Europe is out of control.  And this place is the most touristy.  Buses swarm in the parking lot.  The bridge buckled under the crowd.  Tons of gift shops at the base of the hill were filled with . . . crystal and other items unrelated to the site.
2) The castle itself is amazing, but not 'real' in the sense that it was built well after the age of fortification, and served no historical purpose.  It's just a king's hobby.

If we ever go back, I want to see the nearby town of Füssen.  It looked amazing from the road.

Friday, July 26, 2019

Garmisch-Partenkirchen


I conclude our Garmisch trip posts focusing on the town itself.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a delightful town just north of the German-Austrian border.  The site of the 1936 winter Olympics, it's a haven for winter and summer sports alike.  The town itself is small and charming, offering plenty of restaurants, ice cream shops, and dirndl stores.  Artistic murals adorn the exteriors of many a home.  The surrounding mountains offer adventure, protection, and beauty.  Easily seen in a day, I could enjoy this town's pervading sense of relaxation for a week without boredom.








The final picture above is of a Spezi glass, which is cola + lemon + orange sodas.  It tastes to me like an Alpine meadow . . . or something. 

I conclude this post with the view from our hotel balcony.  All taken from the same spot over three days, it shows how quickly the Alpine weather changes visibility.





Sunday, July 21, 2019

Garmisch: Zugspitze


After a morning on Wank, we decided one cable car ride wasn't enough.  The weather cleared in the afternoon, so we went up the Zugspitze.

The Zugspitze is Germany's highest peak, and on the border with Austria.  There are four ways to get there:
1) Walk
2) Ride a cog-wheel train to a base station, then a short cable car ride to the peak (German side)
3) Take the Zugspitze cable car (German side)
4) Take a cable car (Austrian side)

We opted for 3).  It was expensive (56 Euro round-trip per adult) but worth it.  (Aside: a round-trip ticket from the German side gives you the option to take one mode up and the other down, or whatever you like.)  Here was the ride up.  Harrowing at times, it was enjoyable overall.  Not sure my wife liked the glass bottom portion, though.







The summit offered amazing views in all directions.  It's surreal being above birds and clouds.  At the top, you could walk over to the Austrian side, too, and enjoy the views of Tirol.  Pack a sweater, it can be chilly.









The ride down didn't disappoint, either.  Note that this cable car- built in 2017- set three world records.  Neat.  Note, too, one hiking path up (third picture below).





Not for those scared of heights, the Zugspitze cable car is a 7-minute ride of astounding beauty.