Showing posts with label PA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PA. Show all posts

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Fire Underground (David DeKok)



One hundred miles northwest of Philadelphia, deep in the anthracite coal region of Pennsylvania, lies the town of Centralia.  Like many coal towns, it was a sleepy, close-knit rural PA village, with its maximum population coming in 1890 (2700+ residents), and experiencing the height of coal production in 1917 (when 100 million tons were produced across the USA).  Things would change for residents forever in 1962, when something horrible happened, as covered in Fire Underground, by reporter David DeKok.

In May 1962, a typical (though illegal) landfill fire was deliberately started in Centralia to burn off excess combustible material, reduce foul odor, and clear the area of rodents.  The fire department was aware of it and put it out as scheduled; such fires were common.  What happened next was not.  Unbeknownst to them all, part of the landfill fire got into one of the many abandoned mine shafts dotting the town, starting a mine fire.

Underground mine fires were common in coal regions, and most were dealt with appropriately.  This one was not.  Several projects were initiated to stop it- they were either unsuccessful or half-way measures not intended to fully eradicate the blaze (mine fires can be extremely difficult to extinguish- sometimes only containment is viable).  Residents paid little attention to the fire at first- mine fires move notoriously slowly (this one would progress 75 feet per year).  But in 1969, three homes had to be permanently evacuated because fire byproducts- decrease in oxygen levels, carbon monoxide, and other lethal gases- were found in several residential basements.  The fire had progressed under the town, and seams in rock strata allowed the gases to make their way to the surface.  By that point, they realized something more had to be done.  What followed was decades of bureaucratic government (federal and state) foot-dragging and finger-pointing that would ultimately doom the town.

In 1981, a subsidence opened (a ground-level hole or depression caused by the collapse of mine tunnels deep underground), swallowing a young boy (who was, thankfully, pulled out by his nearby cousin).  Months later, another resident collapsed, overcome from gases in his home seeping up through the ground.  The fire broke out several times on the surface, visible at night and destroying plants by burning (or heating) their roots.  Residents were in a panic; government officials continued denying the problem, downplaying its severity, or pointing at other institutions to deal with the issue.  Finally, in 1983, US Congress approved $42 million to relocate residents, the cost of this being much cheaper than the cost of stopping the fire (which, at that point, would require complete excavation to put out).  In 1984, the relocation of residents started in earnest; by 1986, fewer than 50 homes remained.  Centralia was gone.

How quickly things can change.  In 1980, Centralia had 1,017 citizens.  In 1990, they had 63, which went down to 21 in 2000, and now stands at 10 (as of 2010).  The fire still burns- expected to impact nearby Mt. Carmel in decades (or centuries).  Steam can still be seen at times, and you can visit the abandoned part of highway US-61, where the road was split open by the blaze- the highway would be reconstructed to the east.

Fire Underground is a good story, but DeKok doesn't tell it particularly well.  As a reporter, you can tell he was focused on the details of "who said what when" as the crisis was unfolding.  It makes for good reference material, but jilts the flow of the tale.  He covered the story for over 20 years, so he is clearly informed, but I couldn't help thinking that historian and author David McCullough would have done an amazing job with this.  DeKok's account is citizen-centered, so the government comes across as the bad guy- probably correct, but perhaps distorted; the townsfolk themselves were of widely varying opinions on what needed to be done, and some also denied there was an issue.  In the end, this is a good cautionary tale, and it piqued my interest; I hope to visit Centralia some day.

Rating: B+

Monday, July 7, 2014

Strasburg Railroad


One lesson quickly learned from our time overseas: tourism in the USA is very different from attractions in Europe.  Both regions have areas of astounding natural beauty; what sets them apart are their relative ages as nations.  With Europe's history stretching back thousands of years, it makes sense that many of their attractions center on things unknown to America: castles, abbeys, and other ruins from ages past.  So what does America offer on the sightseeing front?  For one, transportation, which was vital to connecting the vastness that is North America.  To that end, our first major travel adventure in the States was a visit to the Strasburg Railroad.





Located in the heart of Lancaster county's Pennsylvania Dutch country, the Strasburg Railroad is a heritage railway experience.  You can ride aboard an open-air car through acre after acre of Amish farmland over the 45-minute journey, enjoy the wooden dining car, and take in the sights (and smells) of the steam engines.  Thomas the Tank Engine is present at the park and comes out during scheduled Thomas days.  At the station, ride the hand-powered pump car, kid's cranky cars (powered by hand cranks), or the pufferbelly miniature steam train.  Several gift shops (including one selling all things Thomas) and restaurants (featuring the famous whoopie pie) round out the experience, and across the street is a train museum.







Though I grew up near Strasburg, I think this was my first visit in 25 years.  It was fun!  Both kids and adults enjoyed themselves, and I got that distinctly "Americana" feeling as I watched the steam engine pull into the station, not to mention some Pennsylvania pride.  Yes, America is different than Europe.  Different is fun.

Rating: A