Tuesday, February 18, 2014

North Wales

Some points of interest in North Wales
Today's area review: Northern Wales.

First Impressions

I've been to northern Wales twice (December 2011 and December 2012).  Both times, I was impressed with the "atmosphere" of the area.  It's difficult to describe, but it just feels different there.  Something almost supernatural, unearthly, ancient . . . yes, it's odd (as am I), but I've felt that way both visits.  I half expected a prehistoric druid to suddenly materialize in front of me.  Part of it may be the weather.  The damp, penetrating chill, combined with a gray mist swirling around ancient castles and graveyards, snaking its way between mountains and over moors, undoubtedly contributes to the tone of the place.

Things to Do

There are really only two things to do in northern Wales:
1) see King Edward's Castles
2) hike/enjoy the scenery

Each is discussed more below.

1) King Edward's Castles
The Normans invaded Britain in 1066, and made quick work of much of (modern) England.  They ran into trouble in Wales, though- and the Welsh would harass them for centuries.  The Norman king Edward I (r. 1272-1307) poured a lot of effort- and resources- into attempting to subjugate the Welsh.  To do this, he had a series of castles built- among them Conwy, Caernarfon, Beaumaris, and Harlech, all of which are in north Wales.  Often, the castles were built along with adjacent towns, and Edward supplanted large numbers of Englishmen to live deep in Welsh territory.  All of the above were built along the coast- which may seem odd, until you realize that such an arrangement allowed them to be supplied from the sea in the event of Welsh attack.

The ruins of King Edward's castles in Wales are some of the most striking castle ruins on Britain.  I've hit 3 of the 4 so far . . . pictures of the 3 follow.  Refer to the above map for location.

Conwy Castle



Note how gray Wales can be.  The above images are identical- except the one on the right had the color removed.  Not much different, is it?


Here you see the view from Conwy Castle (left), and how the original wood floors have long since rotted/been destroyed, leaving multiple floors visible in this tower (right)

Caernarfon Castle


Note the seal above the chair (right); "ich dien" is German for "I serve."




Beamaris Castle
This one was never finished- Edward ran out of money. 






Harlech Castle
This one's not for those who dislike heights.  Situated on a rocky outcrop with a commanding view of the area, Harlech is one cool place- but watch your step.





2) Scenery
The major natural attraction in the north is Snowdonia- a Welsh national park, the highlight of which is Mt. Snowdon- one of the highest peaks in Britain.  The main mountain cannot be accessed by car- just by rail or foot- and both times we visited, we couldn't see the peak due to weather.  We did drive around Snowdonia, though, and enjoyed the scenery; some pictures follow.


Final Thoughts

If you care only for castles, you can do North Wales in a busy day.  If you love the nature, you could spend days- or weeks- hiking around Snowdonia.  Either way, this is a nice area.

Rating: A


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